Posted: 6/21/2010


      I am looking out from my luxury suite at the St. James Manor hotel this morning after a delicious breakfast: Payaya, strawberries, star fruit, grenadella, bananas, eggs, bacon, sausages, toast, orange juice and hot tea.

     Whales come about 50 metres off shore and I am looking for the big fellas.  Last evening I walked across the rail line to the wave pools and explored the fascinating little critters and the offshore kelp beds and curious seals. Mussels, scallops, shells, winkles, star, welks, periwinkles...I am in St. James, an up market millionaires row of antique shops, trendy restaurants offerering the bounty of the seas, and with its own rail station St. James on the Cape Town-Simonstown local Metro train that hugs the shore and runs every few minutes.

     Down at Kalk Bay harbour 300 meters away last night everyone was buying  fresh seafood suppers. I asked Lillian behind the counter what was good. She gave me a sample of her lamb and bean soup, so I ordered a big cup for R10 and then a large plate of white fish and it included a double helping of chips. I grilled the locals who said THIS was the best anywhere. One guy had the special for R110 with 2 skewers of prawns, some king prawns, hake, snoek,calimari, and more-enough for his family.

     On the breakwater where the fishing fleet was tied up for the night I chatted with some fishermen. It was 7.30pm and they had been there for more than 4 hours but hadn't caught anything yet. False Bay was named over 300 years ago by sailers from the East who mistook it for Table Bay on the other side of the Cape Peninsula. It is much warmer due to the Anguilla current, and there are palm trees outsid my hotel.  St Charles has those stripped Victorian bathing huts and nearby is  surfing at Muizenburg.

    Chatting about the sealife I learn a lot from the shape of the fishes mouths and teeth, what to bait them with and their life in the seas. the tidal pools after the tide has retreated twice daily I skip from rock to rock. the Greenpoint World Cup stadium is 25 minutes away by road-it could be a million miles on a different galaxy.